 |
Summer
Cantaloupe coming in from Mexico, Central America
and the Caribbean.
|
 |
During
winter and spring months, Mexico supplies a lot of our
melons
|
CANTALOUPE (Monday, Dec. 15): Domestic melons are finished, which
will mean we will be relying on more imported fruit. Most melons
during November and into December are grown in Hermosillo, Sonora,
in northern Mexico. Last year, just when Hermosillo growers were
getting ready to start their first picking, the USDA halted all
cantaloupes from Mexico until growers were able to file applications
for importing to the U.S. I've been to this growing region, investigating
the quality of growing, water and food safety. In the La Costa
Valley, about an hour northeast of Hermosillo, the capital city
of Sonora, melon fields are now coming into full production. Less
than 50 years ago, this entire valley was nothing more than a desert,
with mesquite bushes and cactus as the only vegetation. Irrigation
literally transformed this desert into an oasis for melons. Today
in the La Costa Valley, over two-thirds of the growers use drip
irrigation, technology and equipment from Israel and California.
Unlike some misperception about foreign-grown produce, the water
for irrigation is drawn from deep wells, about 600 feet deep, tapping
into subterranean rivers flowing from the Sierra Madre mountain
range, just east of the La Costa Valley. The water is then filtered,
first by nature, then by high-tech, computer-analyzed systems.
The drip irrigation tubes are then placed, not above the ground,
but generally about 4 - 6" under the soil. This method puts
water close to the root system of the plant, not on the surface
where it can drain off or evaporate. Growers here also use colored
plastics to line the rows of melons. In cooler regions of the valley,
clear plastic is used. Condensation forms underneath the plastic.
As the sun's rays shine through the clear plastic, each water droplet
acts like a magnifying glass, warming the soil and the root system.
Warmer soil and roots means faster growth and a healthier plant,
and this produces better sugar content in the fruit as well. In
the Hermosillo region, there are about 16,000 acres of vegetables
and melons. Most of the melons are shipped to the U.S. through
late December. That's when supplies from the Caribbean should start
up. These are known as "off-shore" melons. The main countries
in this region are Costa Rica and Honduras. Between Thanksgiving
and Mothers Day, these two countries will supply about 60% of the
U.S. supply of melons. Four years ago, Hurricane Mitch wiped out
a lot of supplies. So far, weather conditions have been excellent
for planting and fruit growth.
 |
You’ve
probably seen this in the store and asked, “What
in the world is that?”
|
 |
The
Pomelo can grow as large as a bowling ball.
|
POMELO (Tuesday, Dec. 16): Eons ago, the citrus family of fruit
diverged in three general directions from a point of origin in
the shadow of the Himalayan mountains near present-day Bhutan.
The line of citrus that branched into Southeast Asia yielded the
Pomelo (also spelled pummelo). In another time and place, the Pomelo
would sire the grapefruit, which now far overshadows its Southeast
Asian granddad in the United States. This granddad to today’s
grapefruit is still referred to as “Chinese Grapefruit.” And
dozens of southern California farmers are bringing the Pomelo back.
Pomelos certainly contribute visual drama to the winter markets.
They look like over inflated grapefruits. The Pomelo is the largest
of the citrus fruits with a shape that can be fairly round or slightly
pointed at one end (the fruit ranges from nearly round to oblate
or pear-shaped). They range from cantaloupe-size to as large as
a 25-pound watermelon and have very thick, soft rind. The skin
is green to yellow and slightly bumpy; flesh color ranges from
pink to rose. Most of what you see in stores is about the size
of bowling balls. They have a thick peel and even thicker layer
of white pith, which accounts for the Pomelo’s appeal to
preservers. The flesh is sweeter and chewier than grapefruit. Like
grapefruits, they can range from almost seedless to very seedy,
from juicy to dry, from sweet to sour. It is sweeter than a grapefruit
and can be eaten fresh, although membranes around the segments
should be peeled. Pomelos commonly have 16 to 18 segments, compared
to most grapefruit that have about 12 segments. Be sure to refrigerate
and use quickly. Use as you would grapefruit sections. They are
also good for jams, jellies, marmalades and syrups. Most of the
customers for Pomelos fall into one of two categories, says Fred
Campbell, a Fallbrook grower. There are those who have never seen
a Pomelo before and exclaim, "What the heck is that!" And
there are Asian customers who know it well, and are often so particular
about it that they want it with a stem and leaf attached. What
do you do with a Pomelo leaf? The Food of China, by E.N. Anderson,
has this suggestion: "Water in which Pomelo skins or leaves
have been soaked is commonly used to drive away ghosts and evil
spirits." The grapefruit is recognized as a distinct species
of citrus. But it was never mentioned in ancient Chinese texts
that catalogued other citrus fruits, leading botanists to suspect
that it got its start outside of Asia from a cross in the wild
between a Pomelo and a sweet orange. Some have gone so far as to
peg the union to the Caribbean in the 1750s. (About a century earlier
an English seafarer, Captain Shaddock, brought the Pomelo to the
West Indies, where it joined the orange, which was introduced by
Columbus on his second voyage in 1494.) Grapefruit need long periods
of uninterrupted heat to get sweet and stay thin-skinned. So farmers
in coastal counties couldn’t grow them—until plant
breeders at the University of California’s Citrus Research
Center in Riverside came to the rescue with genes from a Pomelo.
Out of their efforts to breed a cooler-climate grapefruit, the
Oroblanco and Mellowgold were born in 1958. They are siblings from
a cross made that year between a Siamese acidless Pomelo from Thailand
and a white grapefruit, says Dr. Mikeal Roose, a botanist at the
university. They have the eye-catching heft of their Thai parent
but have a thinner skin. They are sweeter than straight grapefruit,
even when grown in a cool climate. Moreover, since the Pomelo has
two sets of chromosomes while the grapefruit has four, the offspring
were left with three, which renders them seedless.
 |
Tangerine
with stems and leaves.
|
FAIRCHILD TANGERINE (Wednesday, Dec. 17): The Stems & Leaves
are here. When I first started working in a produce department
in a small town in California, some of my Chinese customers would
come in the store, starting in early December, and ask me, “Are
the stems and leaves in yet?” When I first heart that questions,
I was stumped. But a 3rd generation Chinese American explained
that stems and leaves still attached to the Tangerine is a symbol
of good luck and prosperity for the new year. So, every year, around
this time, you’ll start seeing the stems and leaves. The
Fairchild is one of the popular tangerines grown in the United
States. The Fairchild tangerine is North America's earliest ripening
variety and one of California's most heavily planted varieties.
It’s the “first of the season” Tangerine. The
Fairchild is thin-skinned with what we call a “zipper skin” that
peels easily. They are sweet, juicy but unfortunately, they do
contain seeds, so be careful when you are giving them to your kids.
 |
The “unofficial” Latke
spud is the Russet.
|
 |
Get out the Applesauce or the Sour Cream.
|
RUSSET POTATO (Thursday, Dec. 18): The Jewish holiday of Chanukah
begins this weekend, the Feast of Lights. So get out the spuds
for your latkes. A Latke is a crisp, fried Jewish potato pancake,
with eggs, onion, matzo meal and seasonings. Usually served with
applesauce and sour cream. The wives of the Maccabees supposedly
served them to their husbands as they prepared to drive the ancient
Syrians from their land. Latkes are eaten during Chanukah, the
Feast of Lights, to commemorate the victory. Always press the water
out of the potatoes (using your hands or a colander) after you
grate them but before you mix in other ingredients--it makes for
a firmer latke! Anything can be made low-fat just by changing how
you cook the latke! For a lower fat version, just fry for a minute
or two on each side, and bake latkes for about 10 minutes at 400-450
degrees, then another 5 minutes on the other side. Always use canola
or peanut oil for frying. Lighter-tasting oils are essential for
the flavors of the latkes to emerge without being overpowered by
a lot of a strong-flavored oil. Latkes are traditional Hanukkah
foods. They are fried in oil, and remind us of the miracle of the
oil which burned for eight days rather then for one. It is said
that oil is like studying Torah in two ways.
1) Oil is not a food we eat by ourselves and not necessary for
out daily existence. It simply adds pleasure to our food and life,
as does the study of Torah.
2) Oil has the potential to illuminate. If you stand in a dark
room you can light oil to see the room around you. Study of Torah
can also illuminate our world for us.
By the way, the best spud for Potato Pancakes is the Russet. It’s
high starch, low sugar content is perfect for melting all those
great flavors together.
 |
Cranberries:
The official berry
of the Holiday season.
|
 |
Cranberries
for the fresh market are harvested
with this “mower.”
|
CRANBERRIES (Friday, Dec. 19): Did you know that there
are 440 cranberries in one pound? 4,400 cranberries in one gallon
of juice?
440,000 cranberries in a 100-pound barrel? Seven of 10 cranberries
sold in the world today come from Ocean
Spray, a grower cooperative
started in 1930. If you strung all the cranberries produced in
North America last year, they would stretch from Boston to Los
Angeles more than 565 times. Growers have finished harvesting this
year’s cranberries. If you haven’t purchased your Cranberries
for the holiday dinners, stop what you’re doing and go get
them now. They may not be there if you wait until just before Christmas.
If you have never really used fresh cranberries, they are easier
to use than you think, with a lot of versatile uses for holiday
recipes. Contrary to popular belief, cranberries do not grow in
water. They are grown on sandy bogs or marshes. Because cranberries
float, some bogs are flooded when the fruit is ready for harvesting.
If all the cranberry bogs in North America were put together, they
would comprise an area equal in size to the tiny island of Nantucket,
off Massachusetts, approximately 47 square miles. Native Americans,
long before the Pilgrims arrived in 1620, mixed deer meat and mashed
cranberries to make pemmican - a convenience food that kept for
long periods of time. They also believed that cranberries had medicinal
value, and were used by medicine men as an ingredient in poultices
to draw poison from arrow wounds. Cranberry juice was a natural
dye for rugs, blankets and clothing. The Delaware Indians in New
Jersey used the cranberry as a symbol of peace. Cranberries have
had a variety of different names since their discovery. Eastern
Indians called them "sassamanesh." Cape Cod Pequots and
the South Jersey Leni-Lenape tribes named them "ibimi," or
bitter berry. The Algonquins of Wisconsin called the fruit "atoqua." But
it wasn't until German and Dutch settlers came up with "crane
berry,"
 |
The anatomy of
a Cranberry bog.
|
because the vine blossoms resembled the neck, head
and bill of a crane, that we arrive at what we know today as the
cranberry. Cranberries are unlike any other fruit in the world.
From Cape Cod to Washington State, the cranberry has played a role
in holiday culture and family health & wellness for years.
Its unique health benefits and refreshing, tart taste put it in
a league of its own when it comes to healthy refreshment. American
recipes containing cranberries date from the early 18th Century.
Legend has it that the Pilgrims may have served cranberries at
the first Thanksgiving in 1621 in Plymouth, Massachusetts. During
World War II, American troops required about one million pounds
of dehydrated cranberries a year. The hearty cranberry vine thrives
in conditions that would not support most other crops: acid soil,
few nutrients and low
temperatures, even in summer. Epidemiological
evidence has long supported the role of naturally occurring anti-cancer
agents in fruits and vegetables in reducing the risk of many
diseases, including cancers and heart disease. A variety of compounds
produced
by plants, such as flavonoids, have been investigated for their
anti-cancer activity. Cranberries are a rich source of these
compounds, which may have anti-cancer activity. Other research
being presented
at Experimental Biology continues to support the potential benefit
of cranberry juice in protecting against cholesterol oxidation.
Last year, The Institute of Medicine of the National Academies
of Science issued a report calling for increases in daily intake
of the antioxidant vitamins C and E to exploit their role in
maintaining good health. New research supports a potentially broader
range
of benefits for fighting bacteria, such as Staphylococcus aureus
and Salmonella enteritidis, as well as E. coli.
|