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| If you like onions on
your Pizza, then go for the White Onion. |
WHITE ONIONS (Monday, Jan. 10): Frankly, in cooking,
I really do prefer a white onion. It’s the onion used in Mexico
for most of their cooking. Until just a few years ago, the white
onion was the only onion for Pizza Hut pizzas. It cooks up better
than any other onion, and is a great tasting cooked onion. White
onions have both a white skin and a white flesh. In the produce
industry, they are sometimes called “snowballs” or “diamonds.”
For years, it was the White onion seed variety that was used for
Green Onions. Onions come in three colors - yellow, red and white.
About 88% of the onions produced in the United States are yellow,
about 7% are red onions and 5% are white onions. Because of the
high soluble solids content, white onions are generally the ones
used for dehydration. That’s right. Those dehydrated onions
on the spice aisle, with all that great flavor…are White Onions.
Onions are members of the lily family (Liliaceae), which includes
other edible forms such as garlic, leek, and even asparagus. The
generic name Lilium is the ancient Latin name of garlic. The specific
name textile is from the Latin for "woven," in reference
to the intricately intertwined fibers that coat the onion bulb.
Onions are low in calories and, to be truthful, are also low in
most vitamins and minerals (although they do supply a little calcium,
iron, and potassium). However, the many flavorful members of this
plant family—green onions, leeks, shallots and garlic as well
as onions themselves--are rich sources of a number of phytonutrients.
They contain allyl sulfides (sulfur compounds that may lower blood
pressure and discourage tumor growth), quercetin (a flavonoid with
high antioxidant activity), and saponins (substances connected with
cholesterol-lowering and tumor inhibition). Onions originated in
prehistoric times and were widely consumed in ancient Egypt, Greece,
and Rome. In fact, the Pharaoh’s of Egypt fed onions to the
builders of the Great Pyramids. By the 17th century, Europeans were
enjoying them as a salad ingredient and as a breakfast "health"
food. Today, onions rank sixth among the world's leading vegetable
crops. There are more than 500 alliums; all of the edible species
are bulbing plants with a characteristic pungent smell or taste,
which is produced once their layers of skin are cut. Slicing onions
come in an impressive array of sizes, colors, and shapes. Because
onions are easily crossbred, growers are continually developing
new varieties and hybrids. The ubiquitous medium-sized yellow globe
onions, which are available year round, encompass many different
varieties, with subtle differences in taste or texture. Whatever
names are bestowed upon onions, though, they fall into two general
categories: spring/summer onions and storage onions. Spring/Summer
onions are grown primarily from fall to spring in warm-weather states,
such as Texas, Georgia, and Arizona, these onions have soft flesh
and a mild or sweet taste. Some are designated by names referring
to their growing areas, such as California Italian Red, Vidalia
(from Georgia), Walla Walla (from Washington), or Maui Sweet (from
Hawaii). Granex and Grano are other names denoting sweet onions
with flattened or top-shaped bulbs. These varieties generally are
not stored, but are shipped almost immediately after harvesting.
Many of them are quite juicy and, because of their relatively high
sugar content, mild enough to be eaten raw. Storage onions have
firm flesh, dry, crackly outer skins, and pungent flavors. Grown
in northern areas of the United States, usually above the 35th parallel,
such as Idaho, Colorado, and New York, they are harvested in late
summer and early fall. After a brief period of drying out (a process
known as "curing"), they are stored for several months;
they are available at markets from late fall to early spring. In
stores, these onions may simply be labeled by color--yellow, red,
or white. "Spanish" onions are a variety of very large
storage onion, distinguished by their mild flavor and skin color,
which ranges from yellow to purple. There are no nutritional differences
among these types. Do onions bring tears to your eyes? It may be
worth getting used to if you want a strong set of bones. Investigators
at the University of Bern in Switzerland (Nature, 9/23/99) found
that onions increase skeletal mass and inhibit the natural breakdown
of bone. Scientists aren't sure which specific ingredients in onions
should be credited for these bone-building benefits. And it's a
long way from rats to people. But onions contain a variety of antioxidants,
sulfur compounds, and other substances thought to promote health.
Onions also contain such nutrients as vitamin C, potassium, and
folate (folic acid). Chief among onion's health-giving ingredients
is a plant pigment called quercetin. Quercetin is a potent antioxidant;
foods rich in antioxidants are believed to slow aging, fight cataracts,
and possibly lower the risk of many types of cancer. In addition,
quercetin may help relieve asthma, bug bites, eczema, and hay fever
by blocking allergic and inflammatory responses in the airways and
other areas. It may likewise be beneficial against inflammatory
joint conditions, such as rheumatoid arthritis and gout. Quercetin
is found in tea and apples as well, but investigators at Wageningen
Agricultural University in the Netherlands report that our bodies
absorb quercetin much more readily from onions than from those other
foods. Researchers have found that onions keep blood platelets from
clumping. Although the effect is not nearly as strong as that of
a drug such as Coumadin, onions' mild blood-thinning effect may
help prevent the formation of blood clots, a major cause of heart
attack and stroke.
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You may only know the
city of Casablanca in Morocco, but there is another city you
know through the Tangerine. In the very northern part of Morocco,
find the ancient port city
of Tangier, where the Tangerine first got its name. |
TANGERINE (Tuesday, Jan. 11): Today, in Morocco,
it is Independence Day. In 1944, Morocco began the process of seeking
independence from France, which was finally granted in 1956. Well,
what in the world does Morocco have to do with Tangerine? Plenty.
Get out your world atlas and look up the country of Morocco. Go
to the very north. There, sitting on the coast, right there on the
Strait of Gibraltar, you will find the famous port city of Tangier.
In the world of adventure, the Moroccan city of Casablanca probably
holds the title, but in the world of produce, Tangier holds the
birthplace of the name, Tangerine. That’s right. The Tangerine
was named after the ancient Moroccan port city of Tangier. Although
cultivated for over 3,000 years in China, mandarin oranges did not
reach Europe and North America until the nineteenth century. Morocco
does indeed have a great citrus industry, but the small Mandarin
Oranges we call Tangerines today, were first imported from China…to
Tangier. These Mandarin Oranges were then exported to other parts
of Europe. Since nobody could articulate the Chinese name for the
fruit, these tiny citrus from China simply became known as Tangerines.
Oh sure, you can find the city of Tangerine in Orange County, Florida.
But take my word for it, Tangerine, Florida came a few years after
Tangier, Morocco. Tangier still has a busy port and building, fishing,
and textiles industries. Tourism is also important. The walled Moorish
town adjoins a European suburb. Tangier was probably founded by
the Phoenicians. It was a free city under the Romans and the chief
port and commercial center of Morocco until the founding of Fès
in 808. It was captured from the Moors by the Portuguese in 1471
and was transferred to England as part of the dowry that Catherine
of Braganza brought to Charles II. The English abandoned the city
to the Moroccans in 1684. By the mid-19th century, it had become
the diplomatic center of Morocco. When the rest of the country was
divided between Spanish and French protectorates in 1912, the status
of Tangier remained vague. Finally, in 1923–24, an international
zone administered by France, Spain, and Britain (Italy joined in
1928), was set up. The city was included in the zone as a duty-free
port. During World War II, Spain controlled the zone. In 1945 it
was returned to international control by agreement of Britain, France,
the United States, and the USSR. Tangier remained under international
control until 1956 when it was returned to Morocco, along with the
nation’s independence from France. Tangerines are simply a
class of smaller Mandarins. Tangelos are a class of larger Mandarins.
They are all in the Mandarin family. Mandarin is a group name for
a class of oranges with thin, loose peel, which have been dubbed
"kid-glove" oranges. These are treated as members of a
distinct species, Citrus reticulata Blanco. The name "tangerine"
could be applied as an alternate name to the whole group, but in
the trade, is usually confined to the types with red-orange skin.
Depending on the variety, mandarin oranges are in season from November
through June in the Northern hemisphere, with peak season being
December and January. Select Tangerines that are unblemished and
heavy for their size. Avoid those with cuts, soft spots, or mold.
Bright color really isn’t a good indication of sweetness.
Some Tangerines naturally have green patches on the rind…even
when fully ripe. They may be stored in a cool, dark spot for a few
days, but ideally should be refrigerated to extend shelf life up
to two weeks. By the way, each segment in a Tangerine is actually
called a “carpel.”
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| Pears grown at Mission
Santa Clara were the first fruits sold on the San Francisco
produce markets. |
PEARS
(Wednesday, Jan. 12): It was the intention of the padres, led by
Father Junipero Serra, to found another mission in pretty meadowland
a few miles south of San Francisco Bay as soon as the San Francisco
mission was well established. Father Serra, who stood a little over
5 feet tall, was known as the “apostle to California.”
The mission of Santa Clara indeed was established only three months
later on January 12, 1777. To the dismay of the missionaries, in
six more months there arrived a large group of colonists from Mexico.
The padres did their best to keep the mission and the pueblo separated,
well knowing the detrimental influence of civilians on the neophytes.
Ultimately, mission and pueblo grew into the twin cities of Santa
Clara and San Jose. In 1784 the mission had to be abandoned because
of damage from a great flood. A new site on higher ground was soon
occupied, with the help of skilled artisans from the pueblo whose
work gave the buildings a much more professional appearance. Yet
this skill came to naught in 1818 when an earthquake effectively
destroyed the mission again. With seemingly boundless energy the
padres built a third time, with everything completed by 1825. Natural
disasters did not prevent Mission Santa Clara from achieving great
prosperity, being exceeded at the time only by San Gabriel in the
importance of its possessions. Under Mexican authority mission activity
disappeared, however. In 1851 the property was given to the Jesuits
who founded, and still maintain, the University of Santa Clara on
the old mission site. Today a section of garden wall on the campus
is all that remains of original mission buildings. Today's university
chapel was built after the fire of 1926, its design a faithful reproduction
of the old mission church of a century earlier. The bell tower contains
the original bells sent from Spain so long ago. So what does all
of this have to do with fruits and vegetables…namely pears?
Well, the first deciduous fruit trees planted in California were
Pear trees, planted by the padres at Mission Santa Clara. And the
first fruits sold on the San Francisco markets…were pears
grown at Mission Santa Clara. At one time, the largest pear orchards
in the United States were on the rolling hills of Santa Clara and
San Jose. Today, homes and offices take up the land. Not one pear
orchard is left standing here. When some of the early pioneers ventured
west, they had to cross the treacherous Sierra mountain range. Many
did not survive. Those who did, were greeted at the missions of
California with a breakfast of pears in milk. Pears are one of the
few fruits that do not ripen successfully on the tree. They are
harvested by hand when they reach full maturity but before they
are ripe. Pears will ripen after they harvested. Choose a pear that
is bright and fresh looking with no bruises or external damage.
Pears other than Bartletts do not dramatically change color as they
ripen. Test for ripeness by pressing gently near the stem, if it
gives to gentle pressure it is sweet juicy and ready to eat. Because
pears ripen from the inside out, ripe fruit will give gently to
gentle pressure near the stem. Waiting until pears are soft around
the middle may indicate over ripeness. Store unripe pears in a warm
place outside of the refrigerator in a fruit bowl or in a paper
bag. Check daily for ripeness. Store ripe pears in the coldest part
of the refrigerator. Pears are an ethylene producer. Avoid long
term storage next to ethylene sensitive produce. Pears produce odors,
which may be absorbed by cabbage, carrots, celery, onions and potatoes.
Pears may also absorb odors produced by onions and potatoes. Take
care not to store pears next to these items.
Become familiar with the many varieties of Pears. The Bartlett and
Red Bartlett are considered “Summer Pears,” while all
the rest are considered “Winter Pears.” Each has a distinctive
character, texture, and flavor. You'll enjoy them more if you know
what to expect from each variety. Try them all to find your favorites!
Here’s a handy list of the major pear varieties you can find
in the produce department.
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Yellow Bartlett (Bart-let)
Available: August through January
Ripens to bright yellow. Aromatic, perfect for fresh eating.
Very sweet and juicy. Excellent for canning or cooking. |
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Red Bartlett (Bart-let)
Available: August through January
Bright red skin when fully ripe. Same flavor, texture and use
as yellow Bartletts. |
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Green Anjou (On-ju)
Available: October through June
Abundant juice and sweet flavor when ripe. They do not change
color as they ripen. |
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Red Anjou (On-ju)
Available: October through May
Much the same flavor and texture as green Anjous. Remains maroon
red when ripe. |
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Bosc (Bahsk)
Available: August through April
Highly aromatic flavorful pear. It the among the most elegant
of pears, with it’s tall neck, russeted color. It is the
perfect baking pear. Dense flesh makes it ideal for baking and
cooking. They are brown and often russeted. They do not change
color as they ripen. |
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Comice (Co-meece)
Available: August through February
One of the sweetest, juiciest varieties, and often are very
large. They are known as the “Cadillac of pears.”
The pears used by Harry and David…are Comice pears. An
elegant dessert pear that's excellent with cheese. Almost no
color change when ripe. |
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Seckel (Seck’l)
Available: August through February
Tiny pears with ultra-sweet flavor, maroon and olive green in
color. Excellent choice for children's snacks, pickling, or
as a garnish. No color change when ripened. |
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Forelle (For-ell)
Available: September through February
A smaller variety. Turns bright yellow with crimson freckling
when ripe. Sweet, very juicy. |
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| An apple is a great piece
of fruit in the fall and winter…until you get a jet fresh
Peach from Chile. |
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PEACHES/NECTARINES (Thursday, Jan. 13): Summer
peaches are here…from Chile. An apple is a great piece of
fruit in the fall and winter…until you have tasted a Peach.
The Peach was first cultivated in China and revered as a symbol
of longevity. The image was placed on pottery and received as a
gift with great esteem. Travelers along caravan routes carried the
peach seed to Persia before it was cultivated in Europe. In the
early 1600s Spanish explorers brought it to the New World and by
the 1700s missionaries had established peaches in California. The
peach is the state fruit of Georgia and South Carolina. It is also
the state flower of Delaware. The peach blossom is Delaware's official
state flower. Johnston, South Carolina is known as the Peach Capital
of the World, but California grows over half of the U.S. peach supply.
In fact, California grows 25% of the world’s supply of peaches.
But this time of year, Chile takes the Peach. About 10 years ago,
Chilean growers started air shipping some of their peaches, allowing
them to harvest and sell “tree ripened” peaches. Today,
about 20% of the Chilean peach crop will be shipped to the United
States on an airplane. These peaches may cost more, but they are
well worth it. Within a matter of a few days after harvest, these
truly tree-ripened peaches are heading to our grocery stores. When
you want to fully ripen peaches, do not set them out in the open
air. That will simply cause them to dehydrate and shrivel before
they ever ripen. Place your peaches in a brown paper bag, and leave
it on your counter top. Every day, open the bag and take a sniff.
You’ll know when they are perfect for eating. Low temperatures
recently in Chile have cooled the harvest a bit. Because of the
cold temperatures, fresh peach and nectarine shipments are about
25% less than this same time last year. This will also impact grapes
and other stonefruit. Cherries, for example, were knocked around
from rains, which reduced shipments in November and early December
by as much as 60%. Cherries and Apricots are basically finished
already for the season. The cold and rain have basically delayed
good volume for several weeks. Many growers we spoke to said that
their peaches, nectarines, plums and grapes were running about 12
– 15 days later than expected. We hope grape production will
increase by late January when the larger, more southern growing
regions just south of Santiago come into production. With harvest
and supplies lagging behind, that will keep prices a bit higher
than normal for this time of year. As supplies catch up, we should
see prices drop quickly.
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| Fresh Squeezed Gives You
The Most Vitamin C |
ORANGES (Friday, Jan. 14): Tomorrow begins Fresh
Squeezed Juice week, so let’s talk about Orange Juice. This
time of year, I generally get questions about juicing a Navel Orange.
The letter usually reads like this: “Once I juice the orange,
the juice goes bad almost overnight. What’s wrong with the
Orange?” Well, there’s nothing wrong with the Orange.
The Navel Orange is not a “juicing” orange. There are
two main types if oranges, summer and winter. The winter orange
is the Navel. It is the premier eating orange in the world. It is
seedless…and sweet. The summer orange is also referred to
as the “juicing” orange. Now you can juice any orange,
but if you juice the Navel orange, you will notice that the juice
won’t last long, not longer than a day or so. However, if
you juice a “juicing” orange, like the summer Valencia
orange, the juice can last a lot longer, up to a week in the refrigerator.
There are compounds in the orange that causes the juice to breakdown
quickly. Those compounds are found in the seeds of the orange. A
Navel orange is seedless, so those compounds are spread out throughout
the flesh of the orange. When you juice a Navel orange, those compounds
are now in the juice, causing the juice to sour very quickly. Most
Valencia oranges are grown in Florida, but most of that crop is
used for the frozen or fresh juice market. Over the next several
years, you may see prices of the summer Valencia go even higher.
Many groves in California are being uprooted and replaced with Avocados.
In the past few years, the summer Valencia orange has had a lot
of competition with imported Navel Oranges from Australia. People
don’t want the seeds. But if you only knew how sweet the juice
is from a Valencia. If you have never tried juicing an orange, try
a Valencia. It may just make you fall in love with fresh squeezed
orange juice all over again. By the way, of all the frozen orange
juice on the market, you still get more Vitamin C from fresh squeezed.
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