Last week’s YOUR PRODUCE MAN’S PRODUCE PUZZZZLER still dealt with winter citrus: Who planted the first citrus trees in California? The widespread popularity of California citrus varieties and their penetration of markets everywhere can be directly traced to a wandering Kentucky trapper and a middle-aged couple from Maine. The trapper, William Wolfskill, first settled in what is now Los Angeles in 1841. He planted hundreds of orange and lemon seedlings on two acres at Central Avenue and East Fifth Street, later the site of the Southern Pacific Central Station. But a century before, in 1769, at the Mission San Diego, Father Serra planted the first citrus tree in California, one of the many "Mission Fruits" brought to California by Father Serra and other missionaries. The first citrus orchards were planted in Mission San Gabriel by Father Cruzado, with the help of native Indians. This week’s YOUR PRODUCE MAN’S PRODUCE PUZZZZLER still deals with winter citrus: Which citrus can you eat the peel? See next week’s Fresh Tips for the answer.

The weird world of Winter Squash is a colorful world.

Warm up to Winter Squash.

HARD WINTER SQUASH: These are hidden gold. It’s the wild and wonderful world of Winter Squash. Warm up…to Winter Squash. Don’t worry. They taste better than they look. These hardy vegetables are neither grown nor harvested in the winter, as the name seems to imply—they grow on frost-tender vines and are actually picked in the fall and stored until spring. Because of their hard, thick skins, they have the ability to keep through the cold winter months, a quality that made this member of the gourd family a staple vegetable before the days of modern shipping and freezing techniques. Under their hard skins, winter squash have large seeds and firm, deep-yellow or orange flesh. The word squash is derived from askootasquash, the Massachusetts Indian word meaning "eaten raw" or "uncooked"--one way the flesh was traditionally eaten. A staple of native agriculture, squash was one of the "three sisters" (the other two were beans and corn). Winter squash was particularly prized by natives and early settlers for its long storage life and delicious flavour. There is evidence of squash being eaten in Mexico as far back as 5500 B.C., and in South America over 2,000 years ago. Squash can be divided into two main groups: thin-skinned, early-maturing summer squash (Cucurbita pepo), such as zucchini and vegetable marrow, mini-pumpkins and gourds; and hard-skinned, late-maturing winter squash (Cucurbita maxima and Cucurbita moschata). Winter squash need lots of room, plenty of water and full sun, as well as warm earth to grow in and a long season. A delicious and versatile vegetable, winter squash is actually a member of the gourd family. It has a hard thick shell and seeds. The deep yellow to orange flesh is firmer than that of summer squash and therefore requires longer cooking. Hard-shell squashes were worth paying for long before zucchini became the gardening equivalent of the Tribble. When European explorers stumbled upon the New World, the mainstays of the folks whose world they stumbled upon were corn, beans and squash. The English word 'squash' is from the Narragansett Indian word 'askootasquash' and/ or the Algonquin 'isquotersquashes.' Early explorers didn't know what these squashes were. Food historian Waverly Root tells us that a scout for Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, reporting in about 1540, said that the territory he had explored in what is now the American Southwest grew unusual melons. Coronado was looking for the legendary Seven Cities of Cibola, said to be practically paved with gold. We are not told whether he considered golden-fleshed squash to be a pretty good consolation prize, but it seems doubtful. What makes the various kinds of hard-shell squash of value today is their combination of flavor, ease of preparation, versatility and easy storage. Not to mention nutrition: Unadorned, squash is low in calories, essentially devoid of fat and a good source of vitamin C; most kinds -- except acorn squash -- are very high in vitamin A. Before we get into varieties of squash, let's attempt to dispose of another terminology problem: The dividing lines between gourds, winter squashes and pumpkins are unclear, at least if you don't ask botanists -- and maybe even if you do. This is as close as we need to come: When a squash has a particularly hard rind and is typically used for decoration rather than eaten, it's a gourd; and when a squash is big and orange, it's a pumpkin. Additionally, in England, nothing is a squash: Their term is 'vegetable marrow.' While we're at it, in England the term for what we call 'corn' is 'maize.' (In England, beans -- the third member of the American Indian food triad -- are called 'beans.') In fact, the word 'corn' is used in different countries to refer to the principal cereal crop, whatever it is. In England, 'corn' means what we call wheat; in Scotland and Ireland, 'corn' means what we call oats; in northern Germany, 'korn' means what we call rye. (OK, that had nothing to do with squash, but wasn't it interesting?) Where were we? Oh yes: Squash!

The most common varieties of winter squash include Acorn, Butternut, Hubbard, Spaghetti and Turban. Acorn squash is small, dark green, acorn shaped with deep ridges. Butternut is bell or gourd shaped with smooth, thin light beige to orange skin that is easy to peel. The flesh is orange, fine textured and sweet in flavor. It cooks more quickly than other hard-shelled squash. Hubbard is large, often weighing 12 pounds or more. It is gray green, blue or dark green warted skin; and has a nutty flavor. Spaghetti squash is oval shaped yellow and mild tasting. Its crunchy texture makes it a particularly satisfying vegetable to eat. Turban is a larger variety of buttercup squash. The turban has a bright orange red rind. The turban-like swirl on its blossom end is a fanciful variegated orange, red and white. The yellow or orange flesh of winter squashes is darker than that of summer varieties, and it is more nutritious, richer in complex carbohydrates and, in many cases, beta-carotene. Some types--such as Hubbard and butternut--contain enough beta-carotene to supply almost 150% of the Daily Value for vitamin A in 1 cup of cooked squash.

Winter squash is higher in calories than summer squash but is also higher in vitamins A, C and niacin. One cup of baked acorn squash yields about: 9 gm fiber, 90 mg calcium, 895 mg potassium, 22 mg vitamin C, 114 calories, 877 IU vitamin A, 38.3 mcg folate, 1.9 mg iron and 1.8 mg niacin. Most other winter squash are similar in nutritional value. Choose winter squash that are heavy for their size and have a hard, deep, richly colored rind, but dull. A shiny rind means it’s immature. Remember, these are “hard” squash. That should give you a hint of how to select them. The shell should be hard. If you can easily poke the rind with your fingernail, then most likely, that squash won’t last long. Look for pre-cut pieces of large squash, such as the Hubbard. Slight variations in skin color does not influence favor, but avoid squash with cuts, punctures, sunken spots or with moldy spots on the rind. Because squash can decay inside the skin, avoid any with soft spots, cuts or scars. A tender rind is a sign of immaturity and would result in poor eating quality. Buy 3 to 4 pounds for 4 servings, generally. The hard skin of winter squash protects the flesh and allows it to be stored longer than summer squash. Winter squash will last up to a month in a cool (50 to 55 degrees F.) dark cellar or storage area, but only two weeks in the refrigerator. Ideally, only cut or cooked acorn squash should be refrigerated. They will suffer chill damage at temperatures below 50 degrees F. and will cause the squash to lose some of its sugar content. Dry hot air will cause loss of moisture, resulting in a shorter shelf life. Squash with a bit of the stem still intact will help slow down moisture loss. Store winter squash in a cool, dry place for several weeks. Don’t store winter squash in plastic bags, because the plastic traps moisture and encourages spoilage and rot. It does not require refrigeration and can be kept in a cool dark place for a month or so depending on the variety. A temperature of 45 to 50 degrees F. is ideal. Winter squashes are almost always cooked, but only the flesh is eaten--the seeds, which are high in protein and fat, are usually discarded (although some, such as pumpkin seeds, can be eaten if toasted and hulled). Baking is the most popular way to prepare winter squash but it can also be steamed, simmered or mashed. It is a popular main dish, side dish or can be used to make desserts or soups. To freeze squash, cut into cubes and remove seeds. Cook covered in water until squash is tender. Remove rind and mash the squash. Pack into containers leaving ½" headspace. It can also be baked and frozen, and will keep for about a year. To bake; wash, cut into halves or individual servings, remove seeds. Bake at 350 degrees F. For Butternut, place cut side down in shallow pan. For Acorn and Hubbard, place cut side up in shallow pan. Add a small amount of water to the pan and bake 50 to 60 minute or until tender. To steam, place pieces in steamer or colander over rapidly boiling water, tightly covered for 25- 40 minutes. Baking: This method brings out the sweetness in winter squash, caramelizing some of its sugars--and best conserves its beta-carotene content. Bake halved squash and serve plain, or bake, then fill with a stuffing and return to the oven until the stuffing is heated through (10 to 15 minutes). You can also bake squash halves, then scoop out and mash the flesh with your favorite seasonings; spoon the mashed squash back into the shells (sprinkle with grated cheese, breadcrumbs, chopped nuts, or sesame seeds, if desired) and return to the oven until heated through.

Baking: Halve small squash lengthwise and scoop out the seeds and strings (squash can also be seeded after baking). Cut large squash into serving-sized pieces. Place the squash, cut-side down, in a foil-lined baking pan (its sugary juices may burn onto the pan). Pour about 1/4" of water into the pan, cover with foil, and bake in a 350°F to 400°F oven until the squash is tender when pierced with a knife or toothpick. Halfway through baking, the squash halves (or pieces) may be turned, cut-side up, brushed with a little melted butter or oil, and sprinkled with brown sugar and spices. Cooking times: for squash halves, 40 to 45 minutes; for cut-up squash, 15 to 25 minutes.
Boiling: Although this method is faster than steaming, boiling water will dilute the flavor of the squash slightly. Place peeled squash pieces in a small amount of boiling water and cook until tender. Drain well. Cooking times: 5 minutes.
Microwaving: Arrange squash halves, cut-side up, in a shallow microwavable dish, cover, and cook until tender, rotating the dish halfway through the cooking time. Or, place large chunks of any winter squash in a shallow microwavable dish, cover, and cook until tender. Let stand for 5 minutes after cooking. Cooking time: for squash halves, 7 to 10 minutes; for chunks, 8 minutes.
Sauteing: Grated or peeled, diced squash can be sauteed in broth, or in a combination of broth and oil. Use a nonstick skillet, if possible. Grated squash is best if it is cooked just to the point where it is still slightly crunchy. Cooking time: 8 to 15 minutes.
Steaming: Place seeded squash halves, cut-side down, in a vegetable steamer and cook over boiling water until tender. Or, cook peeled chunks or slices of squash in the steamer. Cooking time: 15 to 20 minutes.

Acorn Squash is the nation’s most popular Winter Hard Squash.

ACORN SQUASH (Monday, Jan. 26): Acorn squash, also called Table Queen and Danish squash, is a type of winter squash. This particular variety is fairly new, introduced in 1913 right here in the U.S. The term acorn squash first appeared in print in 1937. The growing period is longer than summer squash, giving it plenty of time to soak up the sweetness of the sun. Along with the standard green variety, you may also run across orange and white acorn squash varieties. Although available in many areas year-round, prime season for acorn squash is early fall through winter. As with all winter squash it has a hard, thick shell and firm flesh. Acorn squash has a dark green skin and a rich, nutty to sweet, orange flesh. You can toast the seeds just as you would pumpkin seeds. These are popular because of their small size--one squash can be cut in half and baked to make two generous servings. The biggest drawback to this variety is that the rind is quite hard, and therefore difficult to cut. Select acorn squash with as much green on the rind as possible. When comparing, know that lighter weight ones have lost moisture through the skin and will be drier. The best known of the winter squashes, the acorn squash has fluted sides and a pointed end, and usually is dark green patched with orange. It is easily halved (lengthwise, to avoid having one half that tries to rest on its point). Avoid acorn squash with no orange areas -- they are immature -- and those that are more than half orange, which will be stringy. Look for some partial orange on the skin as a sign of maturity. On the other hand, too much orange coloring on the skin indicates an overripe squash, which will be dry and stringy. Best use: Cut in half and bake. Also good quartered and steamed. Hard to peel because of fluted sides. While not as rich in beta-carotene as other winter squashes, acorn squash is an outstanding source of dietary fiber and supplies some vitamin C, B vitamins, and a substantial amount of potassium, along with some magnesium and manganese. With its deeply-ridged, dark-green shell and yellow-orange flesh, acorn squash makes a handsome presentation when halved and baked. It makes a great soup or can be easily stuffed. How about a traditional southern favorite like Acorn Squash Rings with Orange Glaze? This Spiced Acorn Squash is one of my favorites.

This is how most of us see Banana Squash in stores…

…but this is Banana Squash in the raw.

BANANA SQUASH (Tuesday, Jan. 27): This variety is so large that grocers usually cut into smaller chunks before putting it out. It's tasty, but its biggest virtue is the beautiful golden color of its flesh. Banana squash come in orange, pink and even blue. The 'Pink Mammoth Jumbo' variety can grow to 4 feet long and 12 inches in diameter and weigh over 70 pounds. Some are grown in Florida and California. This large cylindrical squash has thick skin, which ranges in color from pale yellow to ivory, and a finely textured orange flesh. It’s normally sold cut and seeded in grocery stores due to its size. The shell ranges in color from creamy-white to pale orange with a golden flesh. Banana squash has a hearty squash flavor with a moderately dry, fine texture. Place cut side up in a cooking dish with 1/2 inch of water, cover and bake for 30-45 minutes at 375°F. Microwave in same amount of water for 18-20 minutes loosely covered with plastic wrap. Serve topped with butter, chopped fresh herbs or honey and chopped nuts. Select unblemished shells; store uncut in a cool, dry area up to 3 months; refrigerate cut squash up to 1 week. Although both baking and steaming are great ways to prepare this tasty squash, steaming produces a slightly sweeter, yet mild flavor. It’s particularly nice in a Banana Squash/Potato Soup or you could stuff them as well. Try it glazed with Apricot and Oranges. The Algonquin Hotel in New Brunswick, Canada has a great Roasted Banana Squash soup with apples and ginger.

Butternut Squash with a thick neck will be the best one.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH (Wednesday, Jan. 28): Shaped like a large peanut with creamy colored skin, deep orange flesh and a distinctive butterscotch flavor. Baked or steamed, they make an excellent single serving when cut in half with a topping of butter and maple syrup. This variety is very popular because it's so easy to use. It's small enough to serve a normal family without leftovers, and the rind is thin enough to peel off with a vegetable peeler. As an added bonus, the flavor is sweet, moist, and pleasantly nutty. The most common winter squash after acorn, this long, fat-bottomed squash has smooth, beige skin, looks like a cross between a pear and a club, and has a nutty flavor. Avoid those with green patches or streaks, which indicate immaturity -- they will be under flavored. Butternut's comparatively small seed cavity means that most of what you see turns into edible squash. Bake or steam; the cooked squash is creamy-textured and makes good puree. It's relatively easy to peel (so it's a good choice for recipes calling for cubes of uncooked squash as an ingredient). Butternut, like the other winter squashes, has a lot more to offer, nutritionally speaking, than summer squashes and zucchini. Butternut's deep-orange flesh is richer in complex carbohydrates and, as you might guess by its color, in beta-carotene. Combined with butter and fresh herbs, Butternut Squash is good source of vitamins A and C, potassium and iron. Butternut squash is also a very good source of dietary fiber, and supplies vitamin C, magnesium, manganese, and a good amount of potassium. Its dense, rich-tasting flesh is another good reason to eat butternut squash. Replace Sweet Potatoes with Butternut Squash in most recipes. Baked, roasted or mashed with a little maple syrup or brown sugar and sweet spices, the squash tastes very similar to pumpkin pie. In fact, team it up with Yams in a Butternut/Yam Mash. Chunks or cubes of squash can be baked or can be added to hearty stews. Teamed up with apples, it makes a great soup. For a great hearty winter dish, trying stuffing Butternut Squash. One final idea would be a Butternut/Potato Gratin. Oh my, your guests will think you’re Julia Childs. And butternut has a softer skin than those of other winter squashes, so it's easier to cut up.

Kabocha Squash: You’ll soon learn why it’s nicknamed “ Honey Squash.”

KABOCHA SQUASH (Thursday, Jan. 29): New to the United States market, this winter squash has a beautiful jade green rind with celadon green streaks. Find a Kabocha Squash. Somewhere, one is waiting for you. When cooked, its pale orange flesh is tender-smooth and sweet. Also known as “Japanese Squash” or “Japanese Pumpkin.” Kabocha is also referred to in Asian markets as “Honey Squash.” Does that give you a hint of how sweet it is? The word Kabocha is a generic term for winter squash in Japan, whereas in California it refers to a particular type of winter squash, which is exported to Japan as well as being consumed domestically. An average Kabocha ranges from 2 to 3 pounds, though they have been known to weigh as much as 8 pounds. Choose squash that are heavy for their size. The stem of a Kabocha squash should be intact and look like brown cork, not blackened or green. The rind should be dull and firm; avoid any with soft spots. Kabochas can be cooked in any way suitable for Acorn Squash, such as baking or steaming. It can be baked, steamed, pureed, braised, chunked, or smoothed in soups, and baked in puddings, pies, and cakes. Before cooking, they must be halved and seeded. Wash and scrub well. The rind of the Kabocha squash is very tough. Most will cut like other winter squashes, but if you come across a particularly hard rind, position a cleaver or large knife to the right of the stem. With a mallet or rolling pin, gently pound where the blade joins the handle. Continue until the squash is split in two. Discard all seeds. Bake with butter, brown sugar and grated ginger in the center cavity. Or, dress baked slices with ginger, sherry, soy sauce, sugar and lemon juice. This orange-fleshed winter squash has a striated forest green rind. It's sweeter, drier, and less fibrous than other winter squash, and it tastes a bit like sweet potatoes. A medium-size jade-green Japanese squash with lighter green streaks or spots, a flattened ball shape and pale orange flesh. It's good both baked and steamed -- use it like acorn squash -- and is relatively easy to peel. Try a Kabocha roasted with Green Tomatoes or in a soup with Pancetta and Sage.

You can actually find Spaghetti in the produce department.

Strands of Spaghetti Squash can be treated just like real Spaghetti

SPAGHETTI SQUASH (Friday, Jan. 30): Also known as “Calabash,” “Vegetable Marrow,” “Noodle Squash” or “Vegetable Spaghetti.” Most authorities agree it is an American native, but where in North or Central America it originated, no one knows. In truth, spaghetti squash is fascinating. Cut open uncooked spaghetti squash, and you'll see smooth flesh. Cook it by baking or steaming or microwaving, and the flesh will separate into strings, like string cheese. In fact, here is a secret: Make sure spaghetti squash is cooked until the skin is very soft and can be pierced easily with a dinner fork, not just a sharp knife. If it's undercooked at all, the strands won't separate and it's virtually inedible. It can even be cooked most of the way in the oven and zapped in the microwave to hurry it up. Spaghetti squash is known as "the fun squash" because it's so different from any other type of squash you are going to cook. There are also so many different things you can do with it. After it's cooked, you can dig a fork into the flesh of a spaghetti squash and pull out long yellow strands that resemble spaghetti. Though they taste like squash, the "noodles" can serve as a low-calorie substitute for pasta. Spaghetti Squash is a whole different thing. After you bake it, the flesh can be pulled out in strands and used like pasta. In fact, there is a great recipe called Spaghetti Squash Alfredo. In fact, simply treat the threads of cooked Spaghetti Squash as you would any pasta. Add some Spaghetti Sauce or Pesto Sauce. Your kids may think you’ve gone off the deep end. Don't use it in recipes calling for other kinds of squash (that are served halved, or are cubed or pureed). It makes an awesome cheesy casserole. The size you buy will depend on your needs. There is no such thing as an "overgrown" Spaghetti squash. The longer the squash grows, the sweeter it will be. However, after picking, squash may be damaged by poor storage. Clues to good quality are a smooth, dry rind, free of cracks or soft spots. If the stem is loosely attached when fruit is purchased, it should be removed to allow the injured area to heal. Moreover, the rind should be dull; a shiny rind indicates that the squash was picked too early, and will not have the full sweetness of a mature specimen. Keep in mind that the larger the vegetable, the thicker the strands and the more flavorful the taste.