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Sometimes, the Pink Lady
just has to mellow out. |
PINK LADY APPLES (Monday, Jan. 31): Mellow out.
Maybe you knew someone who needed to mellow out. Maybe you’ve
even been told to do so. But have you ever heard of an apple that
needed to “mellow out?” The Pink Lady Apple is one such
apple, especially if they are grown in Washington State, where most
of them are. It is so full of spitfire flavor, once it has been
picked, it needs to mellow out just a bit. The Pink Lady is the
last apple of the season to be harvested. From blossom to harvest
is between 190 to 210 days. Washington State grows the most Pink
Lady apples. If they wait to 210 days, they are looking at snow
and frost on the apples before they pick them. A few years ago,
Washington growers waited too long and they were caught by snow,
ruining 80% of the crop. So most growers in Washington State pick
the apples on the lower end of that scale, 190 days or even lower.
That means the Pink Lady will have a lot of starch. High starch
is what makes your mouth pucker. So the growers have to let the
Pink Lady mellow out a bit, settle down. The apples are put into
special storage that helps the starch in the apple turn to sugar.
This curing process takes about 1½ to 2 months. Most Pink
Lady apples were finished with harvest by early November. In fact,
this year is a record crop of Pink Lady apples, but they are just
now starting to come onto the market. They are mellow and settled
down. And you can taste that difference. Pink Lady apples are also
grown in California. They don’t have mellow out their fruit.
They pick their Pink Ladies on the higher end of the scale, closer
to the 210 days. This means the Pink Lady’s starch content
has already converted to sugar on the tree. But, because the apple
is grown in California, it doesn’t get quite the outside color
that Washington state Pink Lady apples will get. The pink blush
comes from colder night temperatures, which Washington has more
of during that time of year. To apple growers, an apple is made
up of starch and acid. The combination of these two things make
up the flavor. There are high starch and low starch apples. There
are high acid and low acid apples.
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| This crop of apples is
ruined by an early snow storm. |
The Fuji apple, for example is a low starch, low acid apple, which
is why it tastes so sweet. The starches in a Fuji have turned to
sugar. The Granny Smith, however, is a high starch, high acid apple.
In fact, the Granny is the highest starch apple commercially grown,
which is why the Granny can really make you pucker. It is also why
the Granny packs a lot of flavor. Next to the Granny, the Pink Lady
is the next highest starch apple commercially grown. When growers
try to determine when to harvest their crop of apples, one of the
tests performed is a starch test. They will cut an apple in half
and spray iodine on the flesh of the fruit. If it turns black, that
indicates a lot of starch. If it turns just a tan color, that indicates
more sugar content. When picking out a good apple, there are a couple
of tricks to use. For bi-color apples, take a look at the background
color. First look at the color around the calyx, the stem end. The
background color should have a lime green color. As you move down
the shoulder, the background color should be a straw or tan color.
By the way, blush color is not a factor in picking out an apple.
The outside color has nothing to do with the flavor inside. You
could have a gorgeous colored apple, but have not flavor. You could
easily have a dull colored apple, but packed with flavor. One thing
I like to do is to ask the produce manager for a bite of a few different
apple varieties. Each shipment could be different, so I ask each
time I’m in. That just proves that of all the tests we can
perform on an apple, to see whether it’s good or not, the
best test…is still the old fashioned bite test. How good does
the apple taste? It’s time to buy the Pink Lady. She’s
mellowed a bit.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS (Tuesday, Feb. 1): We all know
that Brussels Sprouts are a very healthy food, but that does us
no good if we can’t get our family to eat them. Well, today
marks the 23rd anniversary of David Letterman being on late night
television. He started with “Latenight with David Letterman”
on NBC, before moving to CBS with “The Late Show.” Besides
the stupid pet tricks, Letterman is the one to really coin the “Top
10” list. Everyone does lists now, but David Letterman was
the first. So, in honor of David Letterman’s anniversary,
we thought we would do our own Top 10 list. Here are the “Top
10 Reasons…to Eat Brussels Sprouts.”
10. YOU DON’T KNOW ANYONE NAMED BRUSSELS.
9. THEY’RE EASIER TO EAT THAN PUTTING ON A WET SUIT AT THE
BOTTOM OF SWIMMING POOL.
8. ONLY SMART PEOPLE EAT BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
7. YOU’LL BE THE TALK OF THE DINNER PARTY, CUZ YOU’RE
THE ONLY ONE THERE WHO LOVES BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
6. TASTES BETTER THAN ANYTHING EATEN ON “FEAR FACTOR.”
5. IT’S THE ONLY B.S. YOU CAN PUT UP WITH.
4. IF YOU’RE A KID, YOUR PARENTS WILL LET YOU PLAY MORE X-BOX.
3. KEN JENNINGS, THE GUY WHO WON ALL THAT MONEY ON JEOPARDY, HE
LOVES BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
2. IT’S THE ONLY SPROUT THAT’S NEVER BEEN LINKED TO
SOME FOOD BORNE ILLNESS LIKE SALMONELLA.
1. YOU CAN BET YOUR FRIENDS YOU CAN EAT 10 HEADS OF CABBAGE…IN
LESS THAN 60 SECONDS, AND WIN.
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| To find good spears of
Asparagus, look at the tips. They should be tight. |
ASPARAGUS (Wednesday, Feb. 2): We are just a few
weeks away from the premier Asparagus growing region in the United
States, the Delta growing region of Northern California. Generally,
some of the growers there will begin making their first cuts around
the 2nd or 3rd week of the month. Until then, we are getting Asparagus
from the southern growing regions of Baja California and the desert
growing regions in California. Both of these growing regions normally
will experience warm winds this time of year. Well, this isn’t
the best thing for Asparagus, especially the tips. You see, the
warm winds cause the Asparagus tips to “brush out” and
even start to go to seed. It’s easy to spot. Just look at
the tips. Asparagus tips should tight, kind of like an unused paint
brush. They should look like you could dip the tip in ink and write
your name. If the tip looks like a used paint brush, that’s
what we call “brush out.” The reason you don’t
want this is because brush out tips will simply slime when you steam
or boil your Asparagus. Slimy Asparagus will not be very appealing,
especially if you’re trying to get your family to eat it.
Supplies are increasing from the desert. In just a few weeks, we
should have several growing regions in production including Baja,
the desert, Oxnard, Salinas and the Delta. Prices will start to
improve as well.
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| No other pepper turns
red as fast as the Gypsy. |
GYPSY
PEPPERS (Thursday, Feb. 3): This Gypsy is a good girl.
In fact, here come the Gypsy Chicks. Experience the flavor…of
a Gypsy. It has a flavor that really rings the bell. A small pepper
with a sweet flavor…and a little zestiness too. When most
people see a small red pepper, they will think HOT, HOTTER, HOTTEST.
These Gypsy Peppers trick you. They are indeed very sweet. Few could
have imagined the impact of Columbus' discovery of a spice so pungent
that it rivaled the better-known black pepper from the East Indies.
Nonetheless, some 500 years later, chili peppers (Capsicum) have
come to dominate the world spice trade. They are grown everywhere
in the tropics as well as in many temperate regions of the globe.
Their genetic recessive non-pungent form (Bell Peppers) has also
become an important "green" vegetable crop on a global
scale, especially in temperate growing regions. After the plant
produces nine to eleven leaves, a single stem terminates in flower.
Here comes the pepper. Leaves are important to peppers. The leaves
shield the pepper from skin-blistering heat and sunburn. That’s
what makes these smaller red peppers better than their grown up
cousins. The larger Green or Red Bells cannot be protected from
sunburn. The Gypsy can, small enough to hide behind those leaves.
The pepper is related to the tomato, but unlike the tomato, the
pepper’s pollen stays viable, even when temperatures reach
100 degrees, which often happens in Mexico, where these are being
grown this time of year. The fruit matures in four stages, from
dark green to light green, and chocolate stage, which is when the
red pigments develop in the fruit turning it brown. Finally, the
fruit turns red and begins to soften. These sweet Gypsy peppers
are very versatile. They can be eaten raw or cooked, used for dipping
or stuffed. Choose firm, crisp, shiny peppers with a good bright
color and a green stem. They should be hard, not limp, with no wrinkles
or withering or signs of mold. Those that have lost some of their
crispness can be fried or chopped and added to cooked dishes. They
should feel heavy for their size. Avoid peppers with sunken areas,
slashes or black spots. Refrigerate in the crisper drawer, wrapped
in a damp paper towel and in a plastic bag. This helps prevent dehydration.
They’ll keep up to 2 weeks. Left at room temperature they'll
lose their crunch in a matter of hours. Don't wash them until you're
ready to use them. OK, so you’re wondering how this pepper
got the name “gypsy?” This remarkable pepper turns from
shades of green-orange to shades of vibrant scarlet-orange. And
they do it very quickly…like a gypsy. No other pepper changes
color as quickly as the Gypsy. Similar to bell peppers, these peppers
have no heat, but are much sweeter. Much sweeter than even a Red
Bell Pepper. The walls of the Gypsy are thinner, which means they
are easier to cut, clean and turn into strips, and they cook faster
then traditional Red Bell Peppers. These Gypsy Peppers also hold
their vibrant color better when cooked. Gypsy Peppers are great
used as vegetable sticks, stuffed or chopped in salads. Bring out
their delicious flavor by cooking them with meat or chicken. Or
try this very simple dish. Caramelize some onions. Add some sliced
or diced Gypsy Peppers. Then add some of your favorite sausage.
It’s like the Gypsy Pepper was made for this dish. You can
stuff them with cooked couscous or rice enhanced with onion, herbs,
golden raisins and toasted pine nuts. Then roast or fry the stuffed
peppers just until they soften slightly.
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| How in the world can you
enjoy the Super Bowl without a big bowl of Guacamole? |
GUACAMOLE (Friday, Feb. 4): This Sunday is Super
Bowl Sunday. Super Bowl XXXIX at ALLTEC Stadium in Jacksonville,
Florida. Next to Cinco de Mayo, more Guacamole is eaten on Super
Bowl Sunday than any other day of the year. So let’s make
some Guacamole today. The best guacamole begins with the best Avocado.
And that is the Hass Avocado, named after Rudolf Hass, a postman
from Southern California who first discovered this variety in the
early part of the 1900s. Unlike most other Avocados, the Haas has
one of the highest oil content of all avocados. Oil is where the
flavor is. Many other “smooth-skinned” avocado varieties
have much less oil, much more water. That high water content also
makes for a very watery Guacamole. Hass, with less water, more oil,
makes a much creamier Guacamole. Virtually all the Hass avocados
grown in the United States, are grown in Southern California, from
Santa Barbara to San Diego. This time of year, Mexico also supplies
a lot of Hass avocados to the United States. During our off season,
Southern Hemisphere supplies from Chile and New Zealand help fill
the void, from around September into January. Be patient with your
avocados. Before you smash them for your Cinco de Mayo Guacamole,
make sure they are ripe. To ripen a Hass Avocado, place your green
Avocados in a brown paper bag. If you leave them exposed in the
open air, they may just dehydrate before they ripen, so it is always
best to enclose them. Roll up the paper bag and set out on the counter.
Early in the season, it can take up to a week for them to ripen.
To speed up the ripening process, you can place a ripe banana or
an apple into the bag. These fruits will put off ethylene gas, a
natural ripening gas put off by all fruits that ripen. This ethylene
gas will help trigger the ripening in the Hass Avocado. In making
the best Guacamole, get out your Limes. Quick. Once you smash your
Avocados, you need to get a little ascorbic acid (Vit. C) onto the
avocados to keep them from turning brown. About 90% of the Limes
consumed in the United States come from Mexico. Find the heaviest
ones. They’ll have the most juice. Just before you squeeze
the Lime, roll the Lime on a hard surface, like a table or counter
top. Put a lot of pressure on it as you roll it. You see, all citrus
is made up of hundreds of tiny “citrus water balloons.”
By rolling the Lime, you are breaking those water balloons, making
it much easier to squeeze the Lime. For every three avocados, you’ll
want to use at least one fresh Lime. To our Guacamole, add fresh
onions and fresh Garlic. For every avocado, use at least one clove
of Garlic. This time of year, the Garlic is coming out of storage.
It has lost some of its oil content, and that means it has lost
some of its flavor. You may need to add more Garlic. To peel the
cloves, put the flat edge of a large knife on the clove of Garlic.
Then hit it with your other hand. The skin should come right off.
To get the most oil from Garlic, you might want to use a Garlic
press. The best onion to use will be a Red Onion. It has a little
bit of a bite to it, plus, it adds some good color. At this point,
you can add your salt to taste. Kosher or sea salt is best. Iodized
table salt is crystallized. Kosher or sea salt is flat. So which
melts quicker, a snow flake or an ice cube? Of course the snow flake.
When cooking with salt, Kosher or sea salt will dissolve quickly
into your recipe. Table salt will just sit there. You’ll taste
the recipe and say, “Humm. Needs more salt.” So you
add more. Taste again. Add some more. Well, by the time the recipe
gets to the table, the salt has dissolved, and your guests are wondering
why you went crazy with the salt shaker. Adding some sweetness to
your Guacamole will come from the Tomato, and some of the fullness
of flavor will be brought out by Cilantro. As for the Tomato, I
prefer to use the Roma. If you use a regular slicing Tomato or a
Cherry Tomato, they have quite a bit of gel. That liquid gel can
make your Guacamole a little too thin. So I choose a meatier Tomato.
Enter…the roma. The Italian Roma is perfect. It’s meaty.
That’s why the Italians use the roma to make sauces. Thick
and full of flavor. For every Avocado, use one Roma tomato. Make
sure they’re red ripe. You can place them in brown paper bag
a few days before you need them, to make sure they’ll be ripe,
and at the peak of flavor. For a 3-avocado Guacamole, use about
¼ of a bunch of Cilantro. Just chop it up and mix it in.
The secret ingredient to Undeniably the Best Guacamole on the face
of the planet…is the Jalapeno Pepper. If you don’t like
all the heat of the Jalapeno, but you like the flavor, then keep
the seeds out of your Guacamole. The seeds and white membrane contain
about 60% of the heat of the Jalapeno Pepper. Make sure that when
you chop your Jalapeno, use rubber gloves. Those throw-away surgical
gloves are fine. If you don’t use gloves, then make sure you
don’t rub your eyes. You’ll end up with burning eyes
for a few minutes. If you like the heat of the Jalapeno, then look
for “stretch marks” on the pepper. It’ll look
like somebody scartched the pepper. Stretch marks mean the chile
pepper was grown in hot temperatures. The hotter the temperatures,
the hotter the chile pepper. This time of year, virtually all the
chile peppers in the United States are being imported from Mexico.
Zero to Guacamole in 60 seconds or less? You bet. Most stores now
carry fresh “Pico de Gallo” in the fresh cut section
in the produce department. Mash up your Avocados, add the Lime and
salt and toss in the Pico de Gallo.
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